10 Questions to Answer Before You Shop for an HDTV

Here are 10 questions to think about before heading to the store:

1. What screen size do you want, and what is your general budget?
This is probably the one question you've already asked. Screen size and cost go hand in hand, and your answer to this question may dictate the answer to question number two below. Rear-projection TVs still represent the best value in HDTV, offering the biggest screen size for the least amount of money. However, the category is fading fast; Mitsubishi and Samsung are really the only big-name companies still producing rear-pro HDTVs, so you have fewer options. Prices are steadily declining in the flat-panel realm, but a screen larger than 60 inches can still be costly, especially if you go with LCD technology. Conversely, you can find great deals on small-screen HDTVs (under 40 inches), most of which will use LCD technology. For those coveted sizes in the 40- and 50-inch range, prices are very competitive between plasma and LCD.

2. What type of TV will best suit your needs: LCD, plasma, or rear pro?
Beyond the price and screen size issues described above, your answer to this question will be dictated by your room environment. Most shoppers today want a flat panel; that means either LCD or plasma, and each has potential issues that suit it to certain viewing conditions. See our article "Plasma vs. LCD: Which Is Right for You?" for more information. As enticing as a flat panel can be, if you're replacing a bulky TV that sits in a large entertainment center, a rear-projection model might suit you just fine and save you some money in the process. These TVs tend to be very bright, and the picture usually pops in a well-lit room; however, they seldom produce a deep black, which can hurt image quality in a dark room. Also, rear-pro screens have a distinct visual quality, a reflective sheen or silk-screen effect, that some people do not like. Of course, you don't have to firmly commit to one technology before you shop, but it's good to have a general idea of each one's performance.

3. Do you want a 720p or 1080p TV?
1080p is currently the highest resolution available in a consumer TV, and the majority of new HDTVs hitting the market have a 1080p resolution. However, most manufacturers still offer some 720p models, especially at smaller screen sizes. If you're looking to buy a TV with a screen size under 50 inches, it's not necessarily worth it to pay extra just to get 1080p. At a normal seating distance, it will be difficult if not impossible to see the benefits of 1080p, in terms of detail, on a smaller screen. Also, if you're buying an HDTV just to watch television in high-def (not Blu-ray), no stations broadcast in 1080p; 720p and 1080i are the standards, and that's not likely to change anytime soon. Some providers offer limited on-demand content in 1080p, but otherwise Blu-ray (and formerly HD DVD) is the only 1080p source.

4. How will you get HD content?
There's more to high-def than just the TV. You need high-def sources, too. The standard cable box you've been using for years won't cut it. Cable and satellite subscribers need to call their provider and upgrade to an HD package, which usually adds a small monthly fee to their bill. (Satellite users may have to get a different or additional dish, as well.) Make this call before you buy your TV, and find out exactly how many stations your provider offers in high-def. If the HD package only includes five or six stations, you may decide that's not worth $10 a month. Once you upgrade your programming package, your provider will bring you a new HD-capable set-top box that connects to your TV via either a component video or HDMI cable. Make sure to have the technician show you where the HD channels are located in the new channel guide. Chances are, the grid will include both an NBC and an NBC HD, for instance, and you want to tune in to the correct one.

There is another option for receiving HDTV signals: Select a TV model with an HD tuner in it (most new models will have one) and purchase an HDTV antenna that connects to the TV's RF input. This allows you to tune in free over-the-air HD channels like ABC, CBS, NBC, Fox, The CW, and PBS, but you won't have access to premium HD channels like ESPN, TNT, HBO, etc.

5. What video connections does the TV need to have?
What sources do you plan to connect to the TV? A cable box. A DVD player. A Blu-ray player. A gaming console. A computer. There are three HD-capable connections that may appear on an HDTV's back panel: HDMI, component video, and VGA for a PC. Check to see what the highest quality output is on each of your sources. With older DVD players and gaming consoles, it's probably component video (three RCA ports labeled Y, Cb, and Cr). Most newer products feature both HDMI and component video. HDMI is nice because it also carries audio, so you can run a single cable from the source to the TV. If you're planning to upgrade your cable or satellite service, call your provider in advance to find out which connections will be available on the new box. Make sure you select a TV that has enough inputs to accommodate all your different sources. If you want to connect a PC for HD viewing, make sure the TV has a PC input that supports an HD resolution.

6. What cables do you need?
A logical follow-up to question number five, you'll want to make sure you have enough cables to connect each source to the TV. If you're upgrading to HDMI, you don't have to pay the exorbitant prices you'll see in many retail stores. Websites like Monoprice.com, Shop4Tech.com, and CablesforLess.com offer a wide assortment of cables for reasonable prices. Look for an HDMI cable that is Category 2 and certified version 1.3. We should point out that HDMI is not ideal for long cable runs, over about 30 feet. If there's a lot of ground to cover between your TV and your sources, you might want to stick with component video or buy a special HDMI extender or amplified kit.

7. Are you willing to pay more for advanced technologies like LED, 120Hz, or de-judder film modes?
Most manufacturers offer several HDTV lines, each with a different level of performance. Less-expensive entry-level models may not contain the most advanced technologies, and it's up to you to decide whether or not potential improvements are worth the step up in price. In the LCD realm, LED backlighting and 120Hz technology help deal with common LCD issues like motion blur and mediocre black levels. De-judder film modes can produce smoother, less choppy motion with film sources. Casual viewers may not need these features, but the more discerning eye may find that they are worth the extra money. Ask for demos of the technologies and judge for yourself.

8. Are you interested in special features like Internet connectivity, media streaming, or USB/SD card slots?
The big push in the TV world right now is connectivity, or developing TVs that are digital-media friendly. Just how connected would you like to be? If you'd simply like an easy way to show off digital photos or listen to MP3s, look for a model that has an SD card slot or USB port that supports playback of these formats. Want to check weather, stock info, or sports scores via the Internet? Some new models include Ethernet ports and basic widgets to do just that. Others are adding more advanced Internet connectivity to stream content from sites like YouTube, Netflix, and CinemaNow. If this intrigues you, ask the salesperson to show you all the models with Internet connectivity and decide what level of functionality you want.

9. Should you perform advanced video setup or have your TV calibrated?
In a word, yes. Most HDTVs are not set up to look their best out of the box. They are set up to catch your eye under the harsh lighting of the retail floor, and those parameters seldom translate well to a normal living room, be it bright or dark. Simply switching the TV's picture mode from one called Dynamic or Daytime to one labeled Cinema or Natural can make a huge difference, but some people would like to go further than that...and we encourage it. After all, you've just spent thousands of dollars on a TV. Don't you want it to look its best? The do-it-yourself type can pick up a video calibration DVD or Blu-ray disc like Digital Video Essentials (DVD International) or Avia II: Guide to Home Theater (Image Entertainment) and learn how to make adjustments to basic picture controls like contrast, brightness, and color. The truly performance-minded individual should consider paying to have their TV professionally calibrated by a trained technician who can access the service menu and make more advanced adjustments. Contact the Imaging Science Foundation (www.imagingscience.com) to find a certified calibrator in your area; the average price is $225 to $325, depending on display type. If you purchase your HDTV through a specialty retailer, the store may have a certified video calibrator on staff. Ask about this.

10. Is it worth it to shop at a specialty store versus a big-box chain or discount warehouse?
It depends on how much technical knowledge you have, both in terms of the TV purchase and the setup process. An enthusiast who has done a ton of research and model comparison - and who understands HD cables and setup - probably doesn't need the more advanced help you can find in a specialty store. If you're really not interested in doing a lot of research and would prefer to get accurate answers and setup assistance from a trained sales staff, then you should consider shopping in a specialty store and maybe paying a little more for it. In general, you can spend more quality hands-on demo time with a TV in a specialty store; the staff is more open to letting you change the room's lighting and even try out your own DVDs or Blu-ray discs to check out video quality. Of course, there is the chance you will run into the commission-oriented salesperson who does not want to waste time on someone who's just buying a mid-level TV (versus a complete high-end theater); if that happens, just leave and find a better specialty store with salespeople who are happy to help. But remember, courtesy goes both ways: Don't spend two hours getting advice from a trained specialty-store salesperson, only to leave and go buy the same product at a big-box store.